Leila Slimani's Guide to Discovering the Charms of Rabat

Leila Slimani, a distinguished author, fondly recalls her birthplace, Rabat, Morocco, once perceived as a tranquil capital, distinct from the bustling cities of Casablanca or Marrakesh. She describes Rabat as a royal and diplomatic hub, characterized by a discretion she deeply cherishes. Although Slimani relocated to Europe at the age of 18, she consistently returns to her hometown for summer and winter breaks, where her friends and mother still reside. She has observed the city's remarkable evolution over the years, noting improvements in its infrastructure, a proliferation of cultural venues, and the meticulous refurbishment of its gardens, finding it more enchanting with each visit. Slimani, now based in Lisbon, emphasizes Rabat's strategic location within the Bouregreg Valley, a verdant sanctuary for numerous bird species, including storks, the city's emblematic bird. She also highlights Rabat's rich historical tapestry, shaped by the settlement of Andalusians post-Spanish Reconquista and its past as a 17th-century pirate republic. For Slimani, Rabat is profoundly personal; her father rests in the marine cemetery by the Atlantic, and she expresses a desire to be buried there as well, affirming Rabat as her eternal home.

Slimani's autobiographical trilogy, In the Country of Others, with its latest installment I'll Take the Fire, vividly portrays Rabat. The author recounts her efforts to bring to life the vibrant artistic and intellectual scene of 1970s Rabat, a city of power where both creative endeavors and intricate conspiracies unfolded. She asserts that Rabat remains a constant source of inspiration, accompanying her wherever she goes. Slimani offers a curated list of recommendations for visitors, beginning with accommodations. She notes the emergence of numerous hotels catering to diverse preferences, singling out the recently opened Waldorf Astoria in the Mohammed VI Tower for its unparalleled 360-degree views of the city. She also expresses a particular affection for the historic Balima Hotel, currently undergoing renovation, and the charming Story Rabat boutique hotel, celebrated for its beautiful garden and tasteful design. For dining, Slimani suggests starting with the city's excellent fish at establishments like Al Marsa, a renowned institution serving Spanish specialties, and Juanita Banana, a lively Mexican spot. She also recommends Muskaan for its refined cuisine, expansive terrace, and live weekend music. For breakfast, she favors traditional cafes near the Central Market, offering local crepes, smoked meat eggs, or even tagine. She also points to the renovated Cinema Renaissance, an Art Deco gem, for its chic Moroccan tea selection and vibrant atmosphere, frequented by the city's trendsetters. For a caffeine fix, Slimani recommends the traditional mint tea at Café Maure in the Casbah des Oudayas, accompanied by delicious pastries, a place she has frequented since childhood.

Exploring further, Slimani highlights Maymana patisserie for exceptional Moroccan pastries and bread, celebrating it as a female-led success story. For late-night dining, she suggests La Mamma, a legendary Italian restaurant where her parents first met, known for its authentic pizza and grilled dishes. Mister Brochettes is recommended for its grilled meats, a local favorite. Rabat's cultural scene is enriched by the Royal Theatre of Rabat, Africa's largest theater and an architectural marvel designed by Zaha Hadid. For culinary delights, Slimani recommends Ciciona for its traditional couscous and breathtaking views of the Bouregreg Valley and ancient Chellah ruins. Shopping recommendations include Medina Crush for modern Moroccan craftsmanship and Houria Tazi Workshop for exquisite embroidery. Ocean 17, an Art Deco-style concept store, offers a selection of Moroccan-made goods. For beauty products, Maroc Maroc, known for its natural ingredients like argan oil, is highly recommended. Art enthusiasts can visit the Museum of Photography in Borj El Kebir and the Mohamed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. Slimani also cherishes Rabat's secondhand bookstores, particularly Mohamed Aziz's shop on Avenue Mohammed V, a treasure trove of over 5,000 books. For flowers, the Central Market is a vibrant sensory experience. For photography, she suggests the storks over Chellah necropolis or the colonnaded walkway near Hassan Tower at sunset. Souvenir hunters should explore Rue des Consuls for authentic yet modern crafts, such as leather bags, raffia shoes, or saffron-yellow babouches. Nature escapes include Hassan II Park, Jardin d’Essais Botaniques, and the Exotic Gardens of Bouknadel. For tranquility, the Chellah necropolis offers a serene setting amidst Roman ruins and royal tombs. Rabat is easily explored on foot, with the tram providing comfortable longer-distance travel. A day trip to Salé is suggested to explore its medina and the Shems Foundation. The Mohammed VI Tower offers a panoramic 360-degree view of the city. Rabat's Art Deco architecture, especially along Avenue Mohammed V, is a must-see. The best time to visit is spring and autumn for mild weather and exceptional light. For exercise, swimming or surfing at Sables d’Or or Skhirate Beach, running in parks, or golfing at Royal Golf Dar Es Salam are options. Finally, for local secrets, Slimani points to the Boukroune market for organic produce and Amnesia nightclub for lively entertainment.

Rabat, often seen as a tranquil capital, is in fact a dynamic and culturally rich city that seamlessly blends its historical heritage with modern advancements. Its transformation, as witnessed by author Leila Slimani, underscores a dedication to preserving its unique identity while embracing progress. This harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, coupled with its natural beauty and vibrant cultural scene, positions Rabat as a captivating destination. The city's continuous evolution and commitment to offering diverse experiences for residents and visitors alike serve as a testament to its enduring appeal and promising future.