Korean Culinary Masters Establish "First Hand Farm" in Hudson Valley to Cultivate Traditional Ingredients
In a groundbreaking move for the Korean culinary scene in New York, a consortium of acclaimed chefs has united to establish "First Hand Farm" in the verdant Hudson Valley. This innovative project addresses the long-standing challenge of sourcing authentic Korean ingredients with consistent quality in the United States. Beyond merely cultivating essential crops, the farm serves as a vibrant hub for preserving traditional fermentation techniques, fostering culinary education, and building a stronger community among Korean gastronomes.
Pioneering Korean Flavors: The Genesis of First Hand Farm
The journey began with Chef Chang-ho Shin, whose two Michelin-starred Joo Ok in Korea thrived on a farm-to-table ethos. Upon relocating to New York City in 2022, Shin encountered significant hurdles in acquiring key Korean ingredients, such as perilla seeds and leaves, and a variety of vegetables crucial for traditional namul dishes. Despite cultivating relationships with local Hudson Valley farmers, the quality remained unpredictable, fueling his desire for greater control over the produce.
Shin's vision resonated with other prominent figures in Korean cuisine, including Hoyoung Kim of Jua, Ok Dongsik, and the dynamic duo JP and Ellia Park, who helm Hand Hospitality's acclaimed establishments like Atoboy and Atomix. These culinary masters, facing similar ingredient supply issues, collectively recognized the necessity of a dedicated farm. As Jua's Chef Kim noted, while premium meats and fish were accessible, obtaining high-quality vegetables proved elusive, even at a higher cost. This shared frustration catalyzed the idea of cultivating their own.
Thus, "First Hand Farm" was born, a one-acre sanctuary in the Hudson Valley specifically dedicated to growing foundational Korean crops. This includes perilla leaves and a diverse array of namul vegetables such as island spinach, naengi, butterbur, gomchwi, daylily shoots, jeonho, bujigaengi, and wild garlic. Beyond cultivation, the farm is envisioned as a center for fermentation and preservation, integral to Korean culinary heritage. Chef JP Park emphasized the importance of this continuity, stating, "That continuity between growing, fermenting, and cooking is something I find very meaningful."
A recent highlight on a sun-drenched spring day in mid-April saw the participating chefs gather at the farm to engage in the time-honored practice of jang making – the creation of fermented pastes that are the soul of Korean cooking. Ellia Park elaborated that jang, more than a mere seasoning, is a practice shaped by time, environment, and human dedication, relying on fundamental elements: soybeans, salt, time, and patience.
The meticulous process commenced with sterilizing traditional onggi (large earthenware jars) over heated charcoal infused with honey for purification. Subsequently, meju (fermented soybean blocks, prepared in late autumn and dried with rice straw) were carefully placed into the urns with salted water. To enhance flavor balance and stabilize fermentation, jujubes (sweet fruits rich in natural sugar and antioxidants) and dried chili peppers were added. This communal effort underscored the project's dedication to preserving and re-enacting centuries-old culinary rituals. In the coming months, the separation of solids and liquids will yield ganjang (soy sauce) and doenjang (soybean paste), which will then undergo further aging, often for years, to develop their profound depth of flavor and umami.
This initiative arrives at a pivotal moment, coinciding with a global surge in appreciation for Korean food and culture. Joshua Lee, Director of First Hand Farm, highlights the significant impact of cultivating Korean ingredients on American soil. Chef JP Park reflects on the concept of 'terroir,' finding profound meaning in ingredients shaped by the local environment. This fusion of Korean culinary philosophy with New York-grown produce promises to forge a unique culinary identity and experience. The farm also embodies a commitment to future generations, aiming to educate young chefs about the intricate connections between nature, ingredients, and cooking. For the chefs, First Hand Farm transcends a simple agricultural endeavor; it redefines the very essence of hospitality, extending beyond procurement to become a vibrant space for education, collaboration, and cultural exchange.
